Tuesday, October 26, 2010

Just a normal day

I have been sitting at my computer trying to think of a good story or something interesting that has happened in the past week or so and I’m coming up with a blank. The strangest part of that would be that anyone back at home could have come up with a dozen or so anecdotes, but this is my life now and so much of what was not normal 6 months ago is very normal now. I’ll just tell my story of today and for me it’s normal, but if it happened in America I would be such a crazy story.
I had set up a meeting with a teacher yesterday. We were to meet at 3pm at the school so I could help her with her English and her lesson planning. Well when 3 o’clock rolled around I found her, but she was teaching a class until 4. Hmm… I just chalked it up to miscommunication because sometimes that easier. Then we set up a time to meet this morning. We were going to meet at 9am. That was the time she said would work best for her. Well I showed up at the school at 9am and she was nowhere to be found. I waited for 20 minutes and then sent her a text saying how long I waited and for her to let me know when would be a better time. She called me later to tell me she was at the school at 9am. Well, where were you in the school then, I asked her. “I was in the 9a class.” “How can we have a meeting if you have class at that time?” She didn’t have an answer for me. You know, surprisingly enough… it didn’t really bother me. I have gotten used to people not showing up to meetings. I then went to the new English resource center in my village to help log books. Then I went back to the school to teach the teachers at my school English. When I showed up the teachers said they were too tired to have class and asked if we could do it another day. That again, didn’t bother me. It actually invigorated me because I was able to communicate really well with the teachers and even though they went to get an English teacher to translate even though I never needed it. Everything that the teacher translated was what I understood and I only spoke in Kyrgyz. So we went home. Then, I gave my little niece, 10, an English lesson and it was so wonderful. We worked on the alphabet and sang the song together. I was able to explain the ending to her and she totally understood. I taught her words that started with each letter of the alphabet and she taught me the Russian words for them. All in all it was a really good day. I have noticed that my patients are getting better. I still have my days and problems, but there are a lot of things that I’m starting to let go. Six months in and I’m starting to feel different.
I just need to remember to hold on to these good days to help me get through the tough ones where everything seems to fall apart. Once I am able to do that I will be golden. (in 2 days I’ll have been here for 7 months… time flies!)

Tuesday, October 19, 2010

My life in KG and everything my village has

As promised… Accommodations in my village:
• I live on one edge of town and where I live there aren’t any paved roads. It is bad most of the time because when the roads are dry the cars drive fast and dust goes everywhere. It’s really not good especially since I bathe once a week. My face and hair get gross. But when it rains it all turns into mud. The funny thing is that mud in Kyrgyz is a not a very good word (2 words) in English. It makes me giggle every time I hear it. During the winter it won’t be too bad because it will be covered in snow and all the pot holes will be filled in.
• My school (there are three secondary schools and one technical school in my village) is about a 5-10 minute walk. It matters how fast I’m walking. They call it the new school but it was build 20 years ago. There is a kindergarten that is right next to it. Students go there until they are ready to start secondary school. Kids usually start 1st grade around 5 or 6 years old. They go to school for 11 years. Then off to university, technical school, or to work. Some students will leave secondary school around 9th or 10th grade and start at a technical then. My first host brother did that. He went to a school to become an accountant.
• At the school electricity is rarely used and so when there is no power the only way that you can really know is because the bell that lets us know that class is over is a hand held bell that someone rings while walking up and down the hallways. Oh, but if there is electricity the school bell doesn’t ring itself. A teacher has to be on “duty” everyday and they are in charge of ringing the bell and the end and start of each class. The sound of the bell sounds like a fire alarm in America and scares me every time it goes off.
• In town there is one cafĂ© that I usually go to with other volunteers about once a week. The food is pretty decent Kyrgyz food and the people know us there. There are also about 4-5 small cafes which are called ashkana. We go there when we want something different but they usually only have two or three dishes there. Sometimes they don’t have any food at all.
• We have 2 small bazaars during the weeks (Monday-Saturday). And on Sunday we have a very large bazaar called the mal bazaar or domestic animal bazaar. There they sell sheep, horses, cows, chickens, and sometimes yaks and camels. There is a man in At Bashy who trains falcons and sometimes he will be there with his falcons. At this bazaar we usually get shashlik which is kabobs. There is one guy we always go to because he always has beef. The others all have sheep and there is only so much sheep I can eat. This bazaar is on the other side of town than I live on. When I go to it I take a marshruka (a mini bus) and it costs 7 som (about 14 cents).
• The stores here are everywhere. We don’t have grocery stores in Naryn, but everywhere you go there will be small stores called dookon that sell juice, some food, and vodka. There are probably hundreds of them in just my village alone. I don’t know how they all stay in business with so many around but they do.
• There is a sport center in my village. The director is my neighbor said I could come anytime I wanted to play sports. He would just give me the key. I’m thinking of doing some clubs or camps there.
• There is a small stadium/field. That is there I play soccer with my little neighbor girls. It is pretty nice for a Kyrgyz field.
• In the public banya there is rarely lights on in there too. When you first walk in there is a small room with lockers to change and store your clothes. Then there is another room that is warm and you wash in there. There is also a sauna that attached to that room and sometimes women hold the door open and the washing room gets really hot. I really hate that a lot! I don’t like to be hot.
• Everywhere you walk in any city or village in this country there are animals that are everywhere. Stray dogs that wander around. My neighbors have a really mean dog and barks and snarls at me a lot. I really hate it because I have to pass it to get home. There are lots of other animals too. Like at 6 pm all the cows come home. I never truly understood the saying, “until the cows come home” until I moved to this country. They really do come home all walking together down the street. Ha ha.
• The way they keep their horses from running away is to tie their feet together. They are still able to move around and eat but they aren’t able to run. It actually makes me sad watching it.
• There is one gas station in my village. But if you go to any small village away from mine there are lots of houses that have a sign that say benzene and they sell gas in old bottles. Somehow they fill old water or pop or beer bottles with gas and sell to people who run out where there aren’t any gas stations. Somehow that is smart and very stupid at the same time.
• Since I am in the mountains there are lots of places to hike. It absolutely beautiful.
• One thing that I really miss about Portland is that it is so easy to get around because it is basically a grid and most streets are fairly straight and predictable. Here the roads aren’t straight and most of the time there is one rhyme or reason to where they go. I have gotten lost so many times and I just have to watch the mountains to make sure I can find my way home.
That’s quite a few things. I hope this gives you a little bit of a visual of where I live and what life is like for the Kyrgyz people in At Bashy.

Wednesday, October 13, 2010

Calm and Peaceful!

I’m slacking with the blog posts this month, I’m sorry. This country has been going through a lot these past few weeks and as volunteers we have too. The good news is everything is looking good for the government as of now and the people of Kyrgyzstan. It has been very difficult to witness many of the things that have happened to this country in the past six months that I have been here, but at the same time some great changes and leaps forward can come out of it. I’m a strong believer in everything happens for a reason and good can come out of anything! Right now I am sitting under several layers of blankets and still freezing. My heater in my room is on so far today I have gotten the temperature up to a blazing 61 degrees. I have a rough winter to come and the weather is just taunting me. There is another volunteer who lives near me and there are days when I am wearing shorts and she is wearing pants with long underwear. This is the start of her second year and that shows me that if she could make it through a winter year last year I can do it too. It’s kind of funny because I obviously want to do Peace Corps because I want to help people but also this challenge of the crazy winters is intriguing too. I will be able to go out the other side of it and tell stories that will be epic!
This past weekend many volunteers got to spend a lot of time together and do some fun things. One of the nights I made dinner for 22 people and it really brought back memories of cooking in the kitchen at Corbett. Granted I was cooking for 350+ but similar. We made homemade mac and cheese and a veggie salad. All the volunteers loved it and were so grateful to have American food. The cheese here is not so great, but one of the volunteers had pepper jack that was sent from the states and it really helped the flavor a lot. The host mom of the volunteer’s house we were at kept telling me that I need to come back and make food with her and spend more time over there. She said that I would make a great Kyrgyz wife. I take that as a compliment because from her it was intended to be that way. I know that I would make a horrible Kyrgyz wife.
Tonight at the dinner table it was just me and my two nieces eating dinner because everyone else was watching something on TV. They are so cute. They are 10 and 8. It is really amazing because the older one can tell when I don’t understand something and she will stop, thing, and then try to explain it in a different way for me to understand. Her mother is a teacher and I think she takes after her. Those girls make me laugh a lot and I am so happy that I got put with such a great family where everyone is so willing to talk to me.
My host mom went to Bishkek on Monday because she has been very ill for a while now. I’m not sure what she has, but my host sisters have been coming in shifts to take care of the house and the family. She finally went to Bishkek to see a good doctor. My host sister told me today that she will be having an operation sometime soon. Please send good thoughts her way. Her name is Alma (it means apple). I really hope that this helps and that she heals quickly! She is such a caring, loving, wonderful woman and it is so hard to see her in pain. Thanks!
People have been sending great care packages. It is so great to get something in the mail. It really looks like everything is going to be calm and no problems, so if you have been holding out because of a possibility of me leaving the country feel free to send the package now! :) They are much appreciated! Thanks,
Brooke

Here are some pictures of one of my attempts to teach girls to play soccer. :)


Me "playing" soccer with the neighbor girls. They were more interested in taking pictures. HA I remember that age!


My little niece loves to pose for pictures.


This niece doesn't live with me. I only get to see her once in a while. She is probably one of the cutest kids I have ever seen and she has the personality to match!

Friday, October 1, 2010

What is life like for Brooke in KG

It has been brought to my attention that it might be a good idea to have a blog entry solely dedicated to what life is like here on a day to day basis. Let’s start off with the amenities that I have at my house.
• We have an outhouse (which is conveniently called a toilet) that is going to be so cold come February. I am a little nervous to squat in the freezing cold. I have also heard rumors that there are these things we volunteers like to call “poop mountains” which are in the toilet hole. The feces in the toilet freezes because it is so cold outside and it begins to build upon itself. In the more shallow toilets the mountains begins to peak over the edge of the hole. Luckily (or not so luckily) my toilet is very shallow and I’m sure within a month of the ground freezing I will have a beautiful “poop mountain.” Don’t worry, there will be updates on this to come… but I will practice my tact and not post pictures. Even though I will be very temped to. For those of you who know me well know that I’m not lying about that!
• My family also has a banya (where the Kyrgyz people bathe and it is similar to a sauna), but since I’ve lived here I have only see it heated up three times. I go to the public one in town once a week. It’s really helped my self confidence. Next to our banya is our outdoor, summer kitchen. That is where my family makes our their jams, winter salads (salads full of veggies so they can get veggies in the winter) and can them. They also have their kazan out there. A kazan is a huge iron pot kind of like a wok that is heated below it. In these kazans they make lots of different foods. Mostly, they boil meat and make the traditional Beshbarmak which is boiled meat broth and noodles. Sometimes potatoes too. They also butcher sheep in there and dry their hide.
• Next to that is the garage where my host dad stores his 1983 Niva Lada. If you don’t know what that is look it up because it is an awesome old soviet car and I love this thing. It is mustard yellow and it looks like it is going to pass out at any moment. The really cool thing about the garage is that is has a middle section under where the car goes where he can climb down and work on the bottom part of the car like they do at some body shops in America.
• And then lastly attached to all of those things is a chicken coup. They are directly behind my window and I hear them all the time. Once the roosters woke me up at 4am. I was not happy about that. Usually I can sleep through it, but not that day.



• In front of all those things is where we grow potatoes raspberries and black currents. There is one cherry tree there too but this year’s summer was too cold and it only produced one apple. Our clothes line goes through all of that and after I wash my clothes by hand I hang them up there to dry. I have gotten used to hanging my personal items up out in the open for everyone to see because if not, they will not dry.



• That is everything that is on the left side of my house and on the right side is the stables for the animals to stay in during the winter. My family said that we have over 50 sheep and I’m not sure how many goats, cows, and horses. I think we probably have about 10 chickens. It sounds like we would have a large farm with lots of land, but the property that I live on is about the size of my parents property in Buckley which is only two city lots. We now have a covered area where some of the hay is stored and I think that some of the animals will live. I am lucky though because our whole front driveway area and area in front of the stables is all paved with cement. That is a luxury.



• We do not have indoor plumbing and that is very common living in a village. We do have a well in our yard and that isn’t very common. Many people have to go get their water from a communal pump. I am glad that I only have to walk outside and take a bucket and drop it down into the well to get water. Some of my friends who are volunteers here have to walk 10-15 minutes just to get water. Living in the cities it is much more common to have running water, but hot water is something everyone wants. There are maybe one or two volunteers in Naryn city (out of 10) that have a functioning regular hot shower. Many have to heat their water and bucket bathe.
• Inside my house we have an entrance that has a since that needs to be filled with water to work. It has a faucet and if you pour warm water in it, then it doesn’t freeze your hands.
• Then as you enter the rest of the house there are three doors. One goes to the kitchen. In our kitchen (this isn’t normal) we have an oven/stove that is half gas half electric. This is nice for when the power goes out. We also have a refrigerator/freezer which is bigger than the one I grew up with in America. There isn’t a sink. All dishes are washed in a large bowl with boiling hot water. The dining table is in here and this is where we have all our meals together.



• Across the hall is my room. It is very tiny, but that is good for the winter when I only have to heat a tiny room. I have a bed that is small than a twin, a desk with a chair, a wardrobe, and a coat rack. Not much, but perfect!
• The third door goes in to the family area which has a TV and couch. This is where many people in my family sleep. It matters on who is at my house at that time. Our door is a revolving one and people are moving in and out all the time. Any given day we can have anywhere from 3-10 people living here. There is one other bedroom in this house and it is connected to that room.
• The last room in our house is connected to the family area. This room is set up for guesting. There is a large table in there and when we have people over for a party this is where everyone eats. This has happened twice since I have been living here. It’s fun but at the same time very awkward because they all want to talk to you for about 5 minutes then they all have a conversation with each other.
That is everything that we have at our house and everything that my family needs to function on a daily basis. I have found that there is so much that I have in America that I don’t really need. It is nice to be here and enjoy the simple life. I know one day I will go back to America and back to my old ways just out of convenience, but I will never forget the rewards I have gotten from living a more simple life! There is something be said about the joys of having a neighbor just stop by to say hi and drink a cup of tea.


Next I will tell you about the amenities in my village.