Friday, April 22, 2011

My trip to Bishkek

It’s been a while. I have been really busy with traveling around the country, doing work, and preparing for summer. The new trainees came to country 4 weeks ago and they are going through training right now. I went to Bishkek to talk about what I do and what life is like for me. The first thing I talked about was being a teacher and try to give them an idea of what it will be like when they start their service. Then I helped the medical staff give a session on mental health. Yeah, I know… am I really the person to be giving advice about mental health? But it was fun. I opened with a dance party to help loosen them up and show them one way to distress when things get a little overwhelming. It was great and they started a congo line and danced around the building. It was really awesome to see that they still had energy even after everything they are going through.
Also, when I was in Bishkek I watched a few soccer games with some friends. It was so great to watch sports again. The Barcelona vs. Real Madrid game was at 2am our time so when it finally finished and I got to bed it was 5am. But I still woke up at 8am and went to sports day with the new training. I was so tired and found myself spacing out much of the sports playing. But we played ultimate Frisbee, soccer, and American football. Felt so good to play sports and be active. All in all it was awesome to be able to spend time with the newbies. They are a great group and I think they will do great things here. I am excited for them to come to site and see which ones will be near me. Only two weeks away.
Yesterday I took the long trip home. I have done this trip in anywhere from 4-12 hours. The sad part about those times is that one of the fastest times was in the winter with snow on the roads and the slowest was in the summer and the car broke down and we had to wait for another one to come. Well this trip took 7 hours. So it was in the middle, but it felt like forever. I try not to talk on the long rides because it is inevitable that some guy will want to talk to me and ask me the same questions over and over again. The guy in front of me was the guy this time. I’m not sure if he was drunk or just annoying. He started by talking to me in Russian and I just shook my head like I didn’t understand. Then I made the mistake of saying “рахмат” (thank you). I spent a good length of time of that trip trying to stop talking to him. It would not be as bad to talk to people, but I can tell exactly how the conversation will go: I get asked what my name is, where I am from and what I do (none of that is bad). Then we get into me being asked if I will go somewhere with them. Be it the lake, America, anywhere. Then I get asked if I am married or have a boyfriend and no matter what my answer I get told that I need marry their son to be their daughter-in-law. I will then get offered some horrible food or drink that most other people in the car have eaten off of. No matter how much I refuse they keep insisting. All of this happened and more.
Also, one more thing that has become a trend with at least 80% of my rides to or from Bishkek… someone pukes. Mostly small children and it smells horrible. This time it was a very small child and it missed my by inches. The worst part is that it went all over the floor and no one cleaned it up. So I sat next to a pile of vomit for at least an hour and half. It has to be the windy bumpy roads that causes. But they never learn. The kid will puke and then the parent will give them some more food to eat and the whole cycle starts over again. Not my favorite Kyrgyz experience!
So there you go. A little update of my past few weeks.
Brooke

Monday, March 28, 2011

Tash Rabat (stone structure)

One year in and I have so much to look forward to. I have begun to map out my last 14 months and see what I need to do when to accomplish everything I want to. Much of it will be done over the summer, and that’s good because that gives me things to do this summer. I am really excited to see what the next year brings me because this past year has brought me so much. Last night the new trainees arrived to country and we are all so excited for them to be here. It brings back so many memories that seem so long ago, but they were only a year ago. Makes me grateful that I don’t have to go through training again! Training was a really hard time for me, but now I am able to function in this foreign land, communicate with the locals, have friends who don’t speak English, and eat food that I will be happy to leave when PC is over.
My friend Heather, a volunteer who lives nearby had a friend come from America. They came to my village and I showed them around. We also went to Tash Rabat (stone structure). This is a stone structure that they can date back to the 10th century. They think that it was some sort of hotel for the travelers along the Silk Road. There are several rooms and dark tunnels in it. I went there last summer with some other volunteers, but it was cool to go in the winter/spring with snow still on the ground. One of the coolest parts of this place is since Kyrgyzstan and especially the At Bashy region (where I live) is one of the least researched places in the world there aren’t restrictions from go inside or on top of the structure so you can see it up close and personal. It’s really interesting to look at the construction and wonder and imagine how they built it. There are parts inside where there is still plaster on the walls and you can tell that designs were carved into them. So much history. Going there makes me really realize how young America is and how much happened all over the world before America even started to develop into the country that it is today.
Tash Rabat is at least an hour past the last village before China. There are still houses and families who live near the structure year round, but their houses are all alone. There is one house that has been build right near the structure and they are in charge of it. During the summer they set up yurts for tourist to stay in and they also have horse treks that people can go on. Since we went in the winter nothing was up, but they did have a camel and a wolf to take pictures with. We think they found the wolf as a puppy and just put a chain around its neck to keep it there. It is really sad. The camel wasn’t very happy either and kept trying to eat our hair. We were charged to take pictures with the animals as well as to go inside Tash Rabat. Well, Heather and I weren’t charged to go in because we are volunteers in this country but Diane had to pay 50som (a little more than a dollar) to go inside. It’s really nothing when you think about it, but 50som has become a lot of money to me. Especially when I can call America for 25 mins for that amount of money.
On our way home, our taxi driver suddenly stopped the car and started pointing out into a field. I felt like I was home with my dad pointing out a random bird or something. Well there were several prairie dogs out in the field running around. They were everywhere. I had never seen them here before. It was really cool.
The road that we have to take to get to Tash Rabat is really bad because right now it is being redone. It is the only road that goes from China to Bishkek (the capital) and they Chinese have made a deal with Kyrgyzstan where they will pave a new road and they can drive their trucks through it. It is a 3 year project and last summer was the first summer of it. Last summer they chewed up the whole road and then they are going to start paving. Well, when we were driving we passed a huge semi truck and it kicked up a large rock (larger than my fist) and it started bouncing toward our car. It hit the windshield and it cracked and spider-webbed out. Small shards of glass landed on Heather, who was in the front seat, and the driver. It was really scary. Luckily it didn’t go through the window because it would have hit him. This morning I saw him when I was walking around town and he told me that he will go to Bishkek tomorrow to get a replacement. He said it will cost 3500som ($75) to fix it. Sounds like nothing to us, but it is so much money to him. But as a said before at least no one got hurt! I wish I would have taken a picture.



I think there was some sort of underground system with this structure. I had heard at one point that they kept prisoners in these holes.



Tash Rabat



Diane (Heather's friend) and I are warming our hands over the imaginary fire under the dome inside the building.



This is our taxi driver with the camel after he tried to eat his hair. This is the taxi driver who always says hi to me. He is really great. His name is Zoo baike (you call any man older than you baike).



This is the wolf they found as a puppy. As you can tell we kept our distance.

Friday, March 18, 2011

My "finals" week

Sometimes it is just easier to give a rundown of my previous day or week because I feel it gives the best representation of my life here. This will be for the past week (the week before spring break where I should be giving exams so I can turn in grades).
Monday: It was a pretty normal day. My counterpart and I made a Jeopardy game (some things don’t change) for a study day before the tests. We gave it to both of my 11th grade classes and the 8th grade class. It was so great for the 11th grade classes because they were really into trying to answer correctly and they were really showing how much they learned. It was awesome. Then 8th grade came. I think this class is the bane of my existence. I want to help them and teach them, but they just want to mock us and do anything but sit quietly. Most classes will have one or two boys that are disruptive and many times they don’t show up to class. Well, every boy in this class is tentek (naughty) and that is about 10 boys that are disruptive and obnoxious and make teaching that class not fun. If the boys were not in the class it would be a lot of fun and they would learn so much more. But as it is now most of class is focused on trying to get the boys to stop hitting and throwing things.
Tuesday: We gave the test to the 8th grade class and they cheated on the whole thing. Cheating in the country is not something they look down upon nor do they think that it’s cheating. I went outside the classroom to give the oral part of the test and my counterpart stayed in the classroom to watch the students and make sure they didn’t cheat. Well every time I walked in the room to get another student the students were climbing over the desks and looking at each other’s papers. Well, there goes trying to prevent that. She told me which ones were cheating and we are going to make them take it over, but I wanted her to stop it when it started. At least I know that I’m needed here and there are things that I can work on. Then… I was supposed to have two different 9th grade classes after we gave that test. My counterpart then told me that the students were setting up for a first aid seminar for the next day and we couldn’t teach them.
Wednesday: First Aid seminar. No classes today so that means no test given to 11th grade and no study session to either of the 10 grade classes. I was given the job of taking pictures of the day as the students acted out various situations where first aid is needed and then recited text about first aid. They wanted to take my camera and take pictures with it and then give it back to me but I kindly offered to take them (because I already have horrible luck with cameras and I want to be the one to break it if it breaks).
Thursday: Second day of First Aid seminar. No classes again. My counterpart told me that we were going to have a party for Nooruz (a holiday on the 21st of March) and that I needed to make some food. Well, took that as it would be at 3pm that day. So I went home and made cookies and then showed up to school with them. No… the party is on Saturday. So, what did I do? Ate the cookies and I’m going to make something else for Saturday. This night that is what I had for dinner.
Friday: One student is in one of my 10th grade classes. One out of 16 students is there. That means no test review day. As for the other 10th grade class all of the students are there. We played Jeopardy and they did awesome. This is my favorite classes because all of the students are interested and fun to teach. I am able to teach most of the class in all English and they understand most of it. We have started doing a video club and they love watching all my American girlie movies that have subtitles. Next year I get to choose which classes I will teach and they are one of the few classes that I will keep. They make me happy! After this class we went to the teacher’s room to wait for the next class to start. Well, the teachers started talking about the teacher’s party that will be on Saturday and kept talking 15 minutes into the next class. This class (11th grade) we were going to give them their test but we couldn’t because there wasn’t enough time. I went to the class and there were only 6 of the 14 students so it would have been pointless anyway. I watched them play a card game and I never understood what they were doing.
Then, I went home because a man from Peace Corps HQ came to KG last week and is interviewing volunteers and staff about everything. They picked 19 volunteers at random and are interviewing them about their service, staff support, training… ect. The best part about that was he brought me Reese’s Peanut Butter Cups and mini Kitkat bars. Awesome. Then I went to the post office and got a surprise package. There was cheez-it’s in it. And gum, and cookies, and soap, and bobbypins, and letters. It is a great package! Thanks Lauren. I’m still waiting for one more to come from my sister and I’m excited for that one too because it has some great food in it. And patches for my pants because all of my jeans have busted out on the inner thigh. See there is a reason why I have so many pants in America. It’s so my pants don’t bust out! (To all my students who read this and remember the time I ripped my jeans in class playing volleyball, that was an isolated incident).
I then met with an English teacher in my village. She teaches at a different school and is trying to get a volunteer for next year. We went to the café and ate lunch/dinner. And we had a lot of fun. I’m starting to get some local friends and meet with them more regularly. I’m helping her with her English and she is helping me with my Kyrgyz. It was a really great way to end my hectic and frustrating week.
My conclusion to this week is that if I get frustrated with it all I’m going to be frustrated all the time. After the first day of not teaching I told my counterpart that we were just going to give the tests after break and hopefully they will remember at least some of the information. My patients and tolerance has gotten a lot better over the past year. In 11 days I will have lived in Kyrgyzstan for one full year. Amazing. I’m so amazed with how much has become normal. Just under a year ago so many things were a struggle and now are just how I function every day. When I go home people are going to think I’m strange.
I’ve included some pictures of the first aid day.



An example of some students showing what to do in a first aid emergency.



This is my zowvich (assistant principal) with some students showing off a gas mask.



This is some students showing what to do in case of radiation exposure because there are a lot of radiation sites in Kyrgyzstan.

Thursday, March 10, 2011

Sunshine!!

I have had the week I have needed for quite some time now! The sun has been shining, which is all I really needed, the snow is melting away (it makes it difficult to walk anywhere because all of the mud, but I’ll take it), my counterpart taught alone today (including wrote her own lessons) and I am seeing progress in how she is teaching, my host mom came home from Bishkek (I always miss her when she is gone), my improved diet is helping my digestive tract, and spring break is only a week away. I am finishing up writing a grant which is going to be great. I have so many other projects going on and they are all things that I enjoy so that is great. I’m just waiting for better food to start showing up at the bazaars. Oh, what I would do for a tomato and cucumber salad right now. But granola has been a godsend. And also food that my friends and family have sent me over the winter. I can’t imagine how bad it would have been without that. I was struggling as it was.
Today I spent a good hour or so (no one showed up to my English club that they begged me for) reading about Thailand and dreaming about what I’ll be doing next Dec/Jan. I just got a huge tax return too and so I’m thinking maybe another trip will be in order! Or I could save the money and have it for when I finish PC so I have something to start off with. Nah… probably not.
On my way home from school today a man stopped me and asked if we had met before. I never know because I meet so many people and I usually meet them all at the same time so I never remember everyone. He was very excited about it though. After talking to him for a while he told me that I knew a lot of Kyrgyz. It’s not really true, but it totally made my day to have someone say that to me. I can understand much more than I can speak, and to people who are willing to give me the time I can communicate a lot by speaking broken language and using gestures.
Oh, also today one of my counterparts that is more difficult to work with told me that maybe we shouldn’t try to force to work together this year because we are both too busy and we will start next year working together. I am so glad she finally came to that conclusion on her own because she will accept that more.
Life is feeling pretty good right now and I am only two months away from summer vacation and my friends coming to visit! This summer is already full of great things that we are going to do here and hopefully by then all of my grants will be funded and I can focus more on teacher trainings at my school. I never thought I would have such a plan here, but as time goes on I am seeing everything fall into place. I want spend my second year working directly with the teachers at my school and less on writing projects. That will help the sustainability of what I have been trying to do here.
Today I am thankful for SUNSHINE!! May your life be full of sunshine and happiness!

Wednesday, February 23, 2011

Fun in the snow!

Everyone has been saying that this year we have gotten so little snow. Well, it's all coming now. In the past week or so it has snowed 4 or so days. We played in it and had a difficult time making a Кар киши (snowman) but we made it work!



We built a snowman and named him Fred. These are my nieces with him.


Me and Aidana and Fred.


Me and my niece Aichuruk with Fred.


The neighbor kids always want me to play so I came out to play in the snow and they were building igloos!!

Monday, February 21, 2011

The day I almost met the president of Kyrgyzstan

My day almost meeting the president of Kyrgyzstan.
I haven’t been feeling well so I have been lying in bed not doing anything for the past few days. I woke up today with a splitting headache but I had heard wind that the president might come to my village. That was enough for me to pull myself out of bed, wash my greasy hair that hasn’t seen water in over a week and put on mascara. I got dressed and was trying to figure out what I was going to do because I got ready an hour before my first class of the day when I got a phone call from my host sister, who is the assistant principal at the school. She told me that the president was coming and I needed to get to school. I book it into school thinking she would be there in the next hour or so. No such luck. I wait around in the teachers’ lounge for a good 20 minutes talking to the teachers and just observing. The school was in chaos at this point. All of the students were running around scrubbing the school down from top to bottom to prepare. One teacher shows up, I had passed her on the road as I was running to school, and we exchange pleasantries. She looks at me and notices that I have mascara on. Of course I have mascara on, I know that there will be pictures of me taken today and I want it to look like I have eyes. Well, as every teacher walks into the teachers’ room she points out that I’m wearing mascara. Good observation, thank you! She seems to not notice the fact that the entire school is running around, scrubbing floors, painting walls, and changing posters, but she notices that I have added black to my eyelashes.
Around this time the director comes in and craziness follows her. I don’t think I ever heard her voice at a normal level the entire day. Not quite sure why she needed to yell everything at everybody. With that my counterpart and I scurried off to our classroom (which really is no longer my classroom because it was taken away from me… another story). We stand and watch the students scrub that classroom down. They remove the cotton insulation from the windows (aren’t we going to need that because it is still winter) and mop the floor for the um-teenth time. Another teacher comes in the classroom and looks at the desks and tells the students to clean off the writing on them that some previous students decided was necessary to share with the world. At this point my counterpart has left to do something else and the teacher comes up to me and tells me that these students didn’t write this and it must have been my club students. Not sure where she came to this conclusion because all the writing was in Kyrgyz (not English) and there have been many different classes in this classroom that haven’t been my classes. Not to mention that some of these desks had come from somewhere else in the school with the writing already on them before they arrived here. I tried to explain that to her but with the combination of my splitting headache and horrible Kyrgyz I’m sure it did not come out exactly as I intended it to. Oh well. I went and taught two classes after this and then had to leave because my head hurt too much. The President was supposed to come by 4pm at this point.
While at home my host niece told me that she wanted to go back to the school with me when I was going to go back. We head out at about 3:30 and the whole way there she is practicing her English. This girl is 10 and she is amazing. She is coming up with sentences that I have not taught her with very few mistakes. We have been working on the difference between me too and me either. In Kyrgyz they are the same so we were thinking of examples and practicing. We get to school and wait, and wait, and wait. Meanwhile the principal comes back in the teachers’ room and starts yelling about something again. I have no idea what she upset about so I am very uncomfortable. Turns out some teacher has left for the day with still having some classes left to teach. So my counterpart and I are left with the duty of entertaining them. I say entertaining them because this is a class that we don’t teach and I have never met before. My counterpart starts playing a game with them just to keep them busy. This class ends and we are still waiting for the president to come. We decide to go to the “English classroom” to wait some more.
While waiting my other counterpart comes in and says we are going to teach 6th grade together. Wait a minute, I don’t teach this class. Why am I being told that I will be teaching this class? I ask her several times why I am going to teach with her and she just keeps saying that we will teach together. Finally I get her to tell me that it is because they want it to look like I’m working when the president comes. I’m pissed at this point. I go in the classroom with my second counterpart and stand on the side. I have no idea what she is teaching. She keeps handing me the book and telling me to teach something. She decides that she wants to teach present simple so she writes on the board:
I paint I don’t paint
You paint You don’t paint
He/She paints He/She doesn’t paint
We paint We don’t paint
They paint They don’t paint
Then again hands me the book and says write sentences on the board. I’m really irritated at this point but I end up pulling a really great activity out of nowhere. I get all the students participating and talking. I tell her that it’s her turn and she doesn’t know what to do. Didn’t she write a lesson plan? Ugh! While all of this is going on the president finally shows up to my school. There is a Center for Children’s Learning next to my school and they went there first. We can see the guards and the cars and police everywhere. Then we can see her come out of the center and they stand there for a few minutes, then they’re gone. WAIT A MINUTE… they’re gone? Yeah, they drove off to where ever they were going next. All of that for nothing. The cleaning, teaching classes that aren’t ours, the yelling, the chaos… and she just drives off. Strangely enough it didn’t upset me too much that she didn’t come, I have gotten used to this not happening when they are supposed to. Welcome to Kyrgyzstan!

Saturday, February 19, 2011

The adventures of my wallet

It has been a long time since I’ve written a blog. I’ve been staying busy with work, going to Bishkek, and hanging out with my family. Not a whole lot has happened here. I went to Bishkek last week to finish a grant and to start pricing books for a new grant. Turns out the books are much more expensive than I expected, but I think they are going to be a great learning tool and my counterpart is really great at English and it will help her with ideas. It was a very stressful and busy few days in Bishkek, but I managed to squeeze some time in for my friends who got just got back from Thailand. They got married. Their pictures and stories were amazing. It’s always great to see such great people get together.
While in Bishkek I lost my wallet with EVERYTHING in it. As my sister wrote on my blog… some things never change. The great thing that I have learned over the years about when I lose things is not to freak out. It has served me well to stay calm and think happy thoughts. If I don’t find whatever I’ve lost then I’m still left with not freaking out. My friend Heather and I were heading out to our old training village to visit her host sister because she is going to Moscow to work. We took a mini bus to one city and then a taxi to our village. We sat, talked, laughed, and ate. It was a great time and we were so happy to see her sister and dad. When it was time to leave I noticed I didn’t have my wallet. Crap. We searched the house and then searched the village for the taxi that took us there. Somehow we found it and it was not in there. Her host dad starting yelling at the guy for not having it. It’s not like it was his fault. So we got back into the city and figured it was a lost cause because there are so many marshrutkas (minibuses) that go between the two cities we traveled between. There was no way we would be able to track it down. Then next day I went into the PC office and talked to the people there about it. We decided to wait a couple days to see if it would turn up and if not we would start the process of getting new documents. I went about my day and got things done. Around 3 in the afternoon I got a call from this guy asking me in Russian if my name was Emilia (Emily is my middle name). He was reading my documents and was trying to get a hold of me to give them back. In my broken Kyrgyz I told him that I needed to get someone to talk to him. I ran inside the office and got a host country national to talk to the guy. After a few hand offs and negotiating one of the staff members got off the phone and said that he was demanding 1000 som for the return of my wallet. They were going to wait an hour or so and call him back and try to get it back. I just went back to working and finishing things I needed to do in Bishkek. At the end of the day Heather and I went inside so she could learn some songs on the Komuz (the local national stringed instrument). While sitting and listening to people play music the PC staff member walked in with my ID, WITH EVERYTHING STILL IN IT. It was amazing. We didn’t even have to pay a dime (well I guess a som here). I sat there wondering how could he have known my number? Then I realized I had cards in my wallet with my numbers on it so when I add units to my phone I don’t have to tell them the number, I just give them my card. Smartest thing I’ve ever done. He just started calling my numbers and finally got the one that was attached to the simcard in my phone. I still am amazed how it all worked out. But I guess that shows to tell you that happy thoughts can help a lot more than freaking out!
Thank you PC for helping me find my wallet and I promise to keep it with me (Ok… I’ll try to keep it with me) and not leave it places I can’t get it back.

This is a picture of a camel in the middle of the city. I was walking back to the hotel from the PC office and looked up and this is what I saw. It was too good of a picture to not take. Enjoy!! :)
Brooke